Monday 3 November 2014

Inshallah buses and other means of transport




A word „transport” seems to be simple and obvious for us: it means a train (and we can classify, for example, the Polish trains into local, InterCity, and TLK [Your Railways], although it would be better to call them “Kitsch Railways”), then we have buses, though they are more popular rather in cities and almost completely forgotten as long-distanced means of transport, at least in Poland. I think that is all we associate with “public transport, isn’t it? And how do others travel?

I am going to start with buses mentioned in the title and called in this specific way not without a reason. Theoretically, they take 11 people with small hand baggage. I think that I don’t have to mention that in practice it is completely different. The name of these buses has its origins in the fact that they don’t have regular timetables in almost any of the countries I have already visited. They leave when they want – “inshallah” – “if God permits”; if there are enough passengers, if a driver appears, or smokes a cigarette, if there appears someone who wants to make a job on the side and has to bring 20 chairs to the nearby village by this cheerfull vehicle.
The buses usually are in a condition clearly indicating their wearing off (Again I have tried to write it in a more sophisticated manner), and one must pay additionally for taking a backpack. In various countries they have different names, for example in Ukraine and Russia they are called “marshrutka”, in Turkey “dolmush”, etc. In Burma the public transport included not only buses, but also auto rickshaws, so cages for passengers pulling by single-track vehicles. In minibuses there is usually a very cheerful atmosphere and we have already experienced many interesting conversations there (or the attempts to make conversations in English), we learned Syrian songs, ate fresh tangerines or smoked cigarettes with a driver (ugh….you can’t refuse to Arabs, when they treat you, they can’t also smoke when foreigners are nearby because it isn’t tasteful. That is why they frequently use the so-called “gold giving”. A driver was left only with us and he tried really hard to persuade us that the inscription LIGHT is justified by the quality of tobacco (antidote for a few years). Moreover, in Georgia we managed to organize quickly the accommodation for ourselves at a lady’s sitting next to me.


What can be transferred by a bus? Everything and everyone. Starting from a bike on the roof, through fishing nets, rice, clothes, food and ending with animals, and I don’t mean only dogs and cats, but also, for example, fully alive chickens which passengers keep them on their knees. I think that the weirdest thing ever in our lives we experienced in Morocco, while we were going from El Jadida to Marrakesh. I would like to omit the fact that for a few hours we tried to buy tickets for this journey and nobody could explain to us how to do it because the village wasn’t a touristic one. When we were staying at the “bus station” and we were trying to get into the next bus, which we couldn’t go by, it turned out that we weren’t the only ones having problems with transport. There was a man who stubbornly wanted to take with himself….a sheep. Yes, a sheep. And I would like to answer your question in advance: yes, a sheep was alive and in quite a good condition. Of course, the man ended up in our bus and a poor animal while going in a hold was reminding aloud of its existence by bleating on every sharp bend.



In Asia these are bikes which dominate and not only as single vehicles. We have also rickshaws, so vehicles propelled most frequently by the force of “rickshaw men’s” legs with seats next to them dedicated to wretches called passengers. Apart from that, there is a huge number of scooters, motorbikes, and any other single-track vehicles having space theoretically for 2 people and in practice for 2 families. We decided not to use these miracles of technique, but very often we rented bikes. I must admit that having ridden through, for example, Mandalay, I started to perceive even Berlin as a calm, safe, and cyclists-friendly city which is full of people applying road traffic rules.



An interesting idea for varying tourists’ journeys have also Arabs, and especially the inhabitants of Egypt. Long-distanced buses aren’t expensive there and they usually are very good (usually because once I had to travel for 26 hours by such bus in 40 Celsius degrees with a chipboard instead of a window) as they are equipped with air conditioning. It usually functions so effectively that the average temperature inside is about 13-15 Celsius degrees. It wouldn’t be nothing out of the ordinary, but the natives, accustomed to higher temperatures, don’t mind it and they soundly sleep in T-shirts, whereas tourists who travel by this mean of transport for the first time aren’t prepared for it (that is, they don’t have blankets, jackets and trousers) and they unsuccessfully try to persuade the driver to increase the temperature in the vehicle.


 
Something completely different and untypical has been invented also by the Vietnamese. Those who have already visited Vietnam know that I am going to describe the so-called sleeping buses. The name reflects their function as these are buses of normal size, but changed in such a way that instead of seats, there are 3 rows of bunk couchettes inside. The price for using this mean of transport is, of course, not high, but proportional to the size of the sleeping place and the height of an average Vietnamese (so I was satisfied, but Kornel couldn’t fit his feet, not to mention the rest of his body).


I tried to recollect some interesting features of the public transport I have seen in the South America, but the only thing I came up with are huge (XXL) seats in long-distanced buses. Maybe they are supposed to fit an average tourist from the continent above. Who knows?

And you? How do you travel abroad or beyond Europe? Have you had any interesting experiences associated with it?


text:Ewa
photos: Ewa/Kornel
translation:  Paula Suchorska


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