Memory.

A street called Straight, Damascus

When people come back in their minds to the places they visited, they usually find only a nice vestige, the recollection of happiness. A drink with a palm, a delicious kebab from Latakia in this street, the third right from the market and then 20 meters left from the man with an ice cream. These thought vestiges, the idea of the world which was, or is sometimes the escape from boredom, daily life, are the mental fuel providing us with energy every day. At least usually. Because sometimes, although seldom, if one is fortunate enough, they become the only testimony of the existence of certain places, cities, and people who aren’t with us anymore and the destiny of whom no one can guess.

 

Unfortunately, it happened with our memories from Syria. A coincidence, or maybe my own technological underdevelopment at that time, made me write e-mails from this country. I wanted to provide them with a commentary, compare them with the current situation, but I don’t have appropriate words. Because I don’t understand it.

So I would like to present you with my e-mails in an original form, only a bit shorter and in English.

                                       

 The view of Aleppo from the Citadel

Guten Tag,

we had two shoones Deutche tags.*

Yesterday we roamed around a Christian district called Aleppo (characteristic features: the lack of rubbish in the streets and a man calling from far: Are you Poland? Poland good people, understand? Come my shop, not far!). A trip was with Deutche**, so thanks to it we had the opportunity to visit different churches with guides. Fortunately, they spoke English and only the pastor interrupted them and interpreted into Deutche** language. That is why we could learn the Western language. It was worse that a sacristan asked Germans (including both of us) to sing a song. Unfortunately, we couldn’t join the choir due to some problems with vocal chords.

Which way to God?

By the way, a sacristan at orthodox Greeks was speaking about the co-existence of Muslims and Christians in Syria. The discrimination is serious – Christians are given on Sunday 2,5 h of free time for a Mass. I am curious, how many Muslims in Poland has a break on Friday…

Ok, so now briefly about what we have done today. In the morning (…) we set off to visit the Dead City which was has been deserted since the twelfth century (…). A shocking and a bit depressing impressions. However, the vital point of our trip was the Church of St. Simeon  built on the site of St. Simeon Stylites’ pillar. Huge (…)

The ascetic church

But the most interesting is the history of [his] life (…) – he was a kind of a rebel against debauchery and splendor of the Byzantine Church. On the other hand, the Church needed a saint hermit to show him as one of them. That is why after St. Simon’s death, they built a basilica for him. And a monastery. And the Pilgrim’s house.

 

Conclusion: No matter how well you live, one way or another your descendants will make you be seen as a crazy elderly on a pillar.

Norias, Hama

 (…)

That was where we [caught] a bus (he had even a black and white one, you know, but it didn’t work) and arrived at Homs where, in turn, we got into a microbus (these who know Middle Eastern microbuses can imagine it. These who don’t – well, no description can reflect it fully) and go ahead! To Hama, to see norias. No, those aren’t animals, but very old water wheels, some of which still function.

A modest Ewa in a great mosque, Aleppo.

From Hama we went by a VIP bus (yeah, that means to be generous!!!) to Halab (Aleppo) and we are still here. This is the most conservative part of Syria – there are far more men wearing djellabas or women muffled from their feet to heads (but ninjas are still uncommon) and the city is more…inshallah…. (…)

                                                   Maaloua, the lost paradise

4. We returned to Damascus (the number of blind: 0, so this time we didn’t come to the street called Straight) (…). In fact, the last two days were rather a calm travel through amazing places in Syria. Yesterday Maaloua, mainly Christian town with two monasteries, including Saint Thecla’s (there we had the accommodation), Saint Peter’s student and the first martyr. This town was really amazing – 4 churches vs 2 mosques, but for the sake of Friday, the latter ones won. Everything is located 1600 m above sea level, so houses are partially chiseled in rock. The atmosphere resembles films about Jesus. Yet today we have been on our way since 7 o’clock – from Damascus to Bosra. The Roman ruins, “nothing out of the ordinary”, really.

Amphitheatre in Bosra

Yet the amphitheatre has almost 9000 seats and it was changed into a fortress by…..no, I don’t remember which Caliphate.

Bosra

In addition, a thing absolutely unique – the majority of ruins aren’t fenced, so they are inhabited. The view of steel barrels fulfilling the holes in the ancient walls, or children playing football in a Roman shopping mall….Of course, I am completely engrossed in “post-apocalyptic worlds,”  so I love such images. And please don’t quarrel that it is devastation! (…)

Krak des Chavaliers

Our trip had one stop, but significant - Krak des Chavaliers. The castle makes a great impression as it is well maintained and beautifully reconstructed. And it must be admitted that in the past it was a huge fortress. In comparison to it, the Citadel in Aleppo, which we saw a few days ago, seems to be only a poor imitation of stronghold. I don’t know even, how should I describe the castle, whether I should start with a huge moat (and water reservoir at the same time), endless stables, or garrison kitchen with a stove so huge that food for 2000 people can be cooked there at once. But I should also mention at least one of dozens towers and granite plates on the whole hill protecting the upper part o

f the castle against the possibility of digging a tunnel (…). Or maybe should I describe Richard the Lionheart’s lions? Or the church changed into a mosque? Really, everyone must see this castle and become sad because of its history and those who lived in it. (…)

Masalama

Kurnal la Ila

* or a sultan who conquered it. But these are details.

It is difficult to believe that Aleppo and Hama are today nothing else but a stack of ruins, that it is impossible to buy on wide bazaars fresh olives and famous soap.

However, we should believe that human hatred and smallness haven’t taken it from us forever.

That one day Allah, Jehovah, and Jesus will let us see again the dawn from the Citadel, which was defended once by Murat Pasha. 

More widely known as Józef Bem.

                                              The Citadel in Aleppo by night.

* “We had two beautiful German days”; German phrases written down phonetically from German.

** Germans/German. With an error on purpose.